Chopard’s L.U.C line has long occupied a quieter corner of high-end watchmaking, where refinement matters more than volume.
The L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue, introduced at Watches and Wonders 2026, fits that character neatly with a sector dial, a slim steel case and a certified automatic movement visible through the back.
It’s a dress watch with just enough geometry to feel architectural, and just enough colour to avoid becoming another exercise in minimalism.
At a glance
- Chopard has added the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue to its 2026 watch line-up.
- The watch combines a Prussian blue sector dial with a 40 mm Lucent Steel case measuring just 7.2 mm thick.
- It runs on the automatic COSC-certified L.U.C 96.12-L calibre and is fitted to a brown calfskin strap.
A sector dial with 1930s discipline
The dial is the natural focal point here, not because it shouts, but because it’s unusually well judged.
Sector dials gained prominence in the 1930s, when clear divisions between hours and minutes gave watches a technical, almost laboratory-like readability.
On the L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue, that structure appears through two concentric rings and sharp white markings set against an inky blue surface.
The colour is more than a decorative choice.
Prussian blue has a distinct history as one of the first modern synthetic blue pigments, developed in the early 18th century by Johann Jacob Diesbach and later associated with a rich visual language far beyond watchmaking.
Chopard gives the dial a sunburst satin finish, so the blue can shift from deep and dense to quietly luminous as the watch moves on the wrist.
The small seconds display sits just above 6 o’clock, with a circular-brushed finish, four quarter-minute markings and a faceted rhodium-plated hand.
The hour and minute hands are Chopard’s Dauphine-fusée style, also faceted and rhodium-plated, giving the otherwise restrained layout a little edge and contrast.
Lucent Steel keeps the profile discreet
The case is made from Lucent Steel, Chopard’s proprietary alloy that includes 80 percent recycled steel.
It’s twice-smelted, hypoallergenic and described by the maison as harder than 316L steel, with greater scratch resistance and a brighter appearance than conventional watchmaking steel.
That material choice suits the watch’s personality.
The L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue is not trying to be a precious-metal trophy piece, but it still carries the finish and presence expected from Chopard’s manufacture collection.
At 40 mm in diameter and 7.2 mm thick, the proportions land in a versatile space between modern dress watch and everyday refined watch.
The width gives the sector dial enough room to breathe, while the slim profile helps it sit easily under a cuff.
Chopard uses polished surfaces across much of the case, interrupted by satin-brushed vertical flanks and brushed spaces between the lugs.
That mix of brightness and restraint is a familiar L.U.C move, but it remains effective because the watch doesn’t rely on one finish to do all the work.
The hand-stitched brown calfskin strap, finished with ecru stitching, softens the steel case and gives the blue dial a warmer frame.
The L.U.C 96.12-L calibre inside
Turn the watch over and the exhibition caseback reveals the automatic L.U.C 96.12-L calibre.
The movement is COSC-certified, an important detail in a watch that presents itself as elegant rather than overtly technical.
The calibre also sits within an important Chopard lineage, sharing a close relationship with the manufacture’s early in-house L.U.C movement architecture introduced in 1996.
That connection matters because the L.U.C collection has always been about Chopard proving its credibility as a serious watchmaker, not only as a jeweller with a watch division.
Here, the movement choice reinforces the character of the watch.
It’s refined, automatic and properly certified, without pushing the design into complication for complication’s sake.
Details & Specifications
| Brand | Chopard |
|---|---|
| Collection | L.U.C |
| Model | L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue |
| Launch | Watches and Wonders 2026 |
| Case size | 40 mm diameter, 7.2 mm thick |
| Case material | Lucent Steel with 80 percent recycled steel |
| Dial | Prussian blue sunburst satin sector dial with small seconds |
| Hands | Faceted rhodium-plated Dauphine-fusée hour and minute hands |
| Movement | Automatic L.U.C 96.12-L calibre |
| Certification | COSC-certified |
| Caseback | Exhibition caseback |
| Strap | Hand-stitched brown calfskin with ecru stitching |
| Buckle | Lucent Steel pin buckle |
The L.U.C XPS Prussian Blue is likely to appeal to collectors who prefer intelligence over spectacle.
Its strength lies in the way Chopard brings together a historically rooted dial style, a modern steel alloy and a serious automatic calibre without making the watch feel overdesigned.
For anyone drawn to slim, discreetly luxurious watches with a strong design spine, this is one of Chopard’s most persuasive recent L.U.C expressions.
