Chopard has introduced the L.U.C 1860 Chronometer to mark 30 years since the opening of its Manufacture in Fleurier, returning to the compact proportions and technical seriousness that defined the first L.U.C 1860 of 1997.
A 36.5mm Lucent Steel case with vintage restraint
The case measures 36.5mm wide and 8.20mm thick, matching the dimensions of the early L.U.C 1860 rather than stretching the format for modern convention.
Chopard uses Lucent Steel, its twice-refined alloy that is harder and brighter than standard stainless steel, with vertical satin brushing across the flanks and polished surfaces on the bezel and lugs.
Areuse Blue gives the guilloché dial a local connection
The solid gold dial is hand-guilloché on a rose-engine lathe and finished in Areuse Blue, a colour tied to the river that runs through the Val-de-Travers near Fleurier.
Instead of the honeycomb motif seen on some earlier L.U.C models, this dial uses a radiating, wave-like pattern that shifts from bright blue to deep navy as the light changes.
Chevron markers, Dauphine hands and a small seconds display at 6 o’clock keep the layout formal, while the absence of a date window gives the watch a clean, balanced face.
The L.U.C 96.40-L keeps the case thin
Inside is the self-winding L.U.C 96.40-L, a descendant of Chopard’s first manufacture movement and a key reason the watch can remain so slim.
Its 22ct gold micro-rotor sits within the height of the movement, while twin stacked barrels provide a 65-hour power reserve at a 4Hz frequency.
The calibre is COSC-certified and bears the Poinçon de Genève, with Côtes de Genève on the bridges, perlage on the mainplate and a Phillips terminal curve for the balance spring.
Price and collector appeal
The Chopard L.U.C 1860 Chronometer, reference 168860-3005, is fitted to an anthracite grey grained calfskin strap with a Lucent Steel pin buckle and is priced at £23,900.
It is a watch for collectors who value restraint over size, traditional finishing over visual noise and a movement architecture that remains central to the identity of the L.U.C line.
