The DOXA SUB 200 II is a 44 mm automatic dive watch that leans into wrist presence without abandoning everyday wearability.
Its headline detail is not the size, though, but the arrival of fumé dials in DOXA’s dive-watch line-up, giving this practical 200-metre diver a more polished character than the brand’s usual tool-first colour language.
Fumé Dials Bring a New Mood to DOXA
DOXA has long understood colour as more than decoration, with bright, high-contrast dials forming a major part of its identity since the late 1960s.
For the SUB 200 II, the palette shifts into something more atmospheric, with black, blue, green, grey and Redcoral dials that darken toward the perimeter and catch the light through a sunray finish.
The layout remains clean and familiar, using broad applied markers, baton hands, aged Super-LumiNova and a framed date window at 3 o’clock.
The result is still legible, but less bluntly utilitarian than many DOXA divers, making the watch easier to imagine with daily clothing rather than just wetsuit neoprene.
A 44 mm Case That Wears Smarter Than Expected
On paper, 44 mm places the SUB 200 II firmly in large-watch territory, especially at a time when many brands are moving back toward smaller vintage-style cases.
The important number is the 48 mm lug-to-lug measurement, which helps rein in the footprint, while the 12.8 mm height keeps the watch from feeling overly bulky.
The stainless steel case combines brushed and polished finishing, and the twisted lyre-style lugs add a welcome bit of shape to what could otherwise have been a straightforward diver’s case.
Up front, a domed sapphire crystal sits above a unidirectional rotating bezel with a circular-brushed aluminium insert matched to the dial colour.
The Redcoral version takes a more assertive route, pairing its red fumé dial with a black DLC-coated case and matching dark hardware.
Sellita Power and Proper Dive-Watch Hardware
Inside the SUB 200 II is the Sellita SW200, a Swiss automatic movement known for reliability, serviceability and sensible performance.
It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers a 38-hour power reserve, which is modest by current standards but entirely workable for a daily automatic sports watch.
DOXA keeps the movement behind a solid screwed steel caseback, reinforcing the watch’s practical intent rather than turning it into a display-case showpiece.
A screw-down crown and 200 metres of water resistance complete the specification expected of a serious recreational diver.
Bracelet, Strap Options and UK Pricing
The black, blue, green and grey versions are available on a vintage-style Milanese stainless steel bracelet or a colour-matched rubber strap.
The Redcoral edition follows the same formula but uses black DLC treatment on the bracelet to match its darker case execution.
UK pricing starts at £1,390 for the standard dial colours on rubber and £1,450 on the stainless steel bracelet.
The Redcoral model is priced at £1,490 on rubber and £1,590 on the DLC-coated bracelet.
The SUB 200 II will make the most sense for collectors who like DOXA’s dive-watch credibility but want something more refined than the brand’s brightest instrument-style pieces.
It is still a substantial watch, but the restrained thickness, compact lug span and richer dial finishing make it one of the more versatile large-format divers in DOXA’s current range.
