The week’s most interesting watch launches didn’t settle into one lane.
H. Moser & Cie. pushed deeper into digital watchmaking, Vacheron Constantin marked three decades of the Overseas, and several brands leaned into high complication, handcraft and practical tool-watch design.
It’s a useful snapshot of where the market sits right now, with one foot in experimental displays and the other in familiar, well-executed collecting territory.
At a glance
- H. Moser & Cie. introduced the Off-Grid, a limited digital watch with serious complication depth.
- Vacheron Constantin celebrated 30 years of the Overseas with a white-gold Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin.
- The week also brought new releases from Panerai, Ulysse Nardin, Roger Dubuis and Formex, ranging from high horology to accessible titanium tool-watch design.
Moser makes a broader case for digital complication
H. Moser & Cie.’s Off-Grid is the release that feels most likely to start arguments among enthusiasts, which is often where Moser likes to be.
The 42.6mm watch uses a skeletonised digital display, a small domed fumé dial and an integrated rubber strap, putting it somewhere between high-concept sports watch and genuinely useful travel instrument.
The D10 calibre, developed with Sequent, brings a substantial list of functions including GMT, a split-seconds chronograph accurate to 1/100th of a second, perpetual calendar, moonphase, alarm, timer, sunrise and sunset times, and a dictionary with 10 words in 21 languages.
Autonomy is quoted at up to 12 months in time-display-only mode, or six months with mixed use, which gives the watch a more practical edge than its offbeat presentation might suggest.
Two versions are available, one blue and one black, each limited to 1,000 pieces and priced at CHF 3,900 excluding VAT.
High complications lean into theatre and architecture
Panerai’s Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784 brings a notably technical interpretation of the brand’s familiar case language.
![Ulysse Nardin Freak [ONE Guilloché]](https://revolutionwatch.com/wp-content/uploads/2026/09/2403-500LE-4A-GUI_3A-Cobra-Low-scaled-e1790589036448.png)
The 47mm Grade 5 titanium case frames the skeletonised hand-wound P.2005/T calibre, with blue-finished titanium bridges and a tourbillon that completes a rotation every 30 seconds on an axis perpendicular to the balance.
It also keeps the Luminor’s practical side intact, with a GMT traveler function, six days of power reserve from three barrels, 100 metres of water resistance and an additional rubber strap alongside the dark-blue alligator leather option.
Ulysse Nardin takes a different route with the Freak [ONE Guilloché], a 99-piece limited edition that places diamond-pattern guilloché directly onto the sand-toned rotating hour disc.
The 44mm titanium watch is powered by the automatic UN-240 calibre, with a flying carousel, DIAMonSIL escapement and 90 hours of power reserve, while retaining the Freak’s absence of conventional dial, hands and crown.
Roger Dubuis stays firmly in its own mythological register with Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin, limited to 28 pieces.
The 45mm pink-gold watch imagines Merlin as a white stag, hand-engraved on the case middle in a process said to take around 70 hours, while twelve pink-gold knights stand around a dial made from 57 blocks of glass, pink gold and Crystallium.
Formex and Vacheron cover opposite ends of daily wear
Formex’s AirField is the most grounded release of the group, and that’s meant as a compliment.
The 40mm watch uses a hardened Grade 2 titanium case measuring 10.6mm thick, with a quoted surface hardness of roughly 900 Vickers and 150 metres of water resistance.
The dial options are Tarmac Grey, Jet Black, Horizon Blue and Desert Sand, all with finely grained surfaces, sword hands, a dot-and-triangle marker at 12 and an aircraft-shaped counterweight on the seconds hand.
Inside is the Sellita SW200-2 Power+ with a 65-hour power reserve, while pricing starts from CHF 830.
At the other end of the spectrum, Vacheron Constantin’s Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary is a 200-piece limited edition in 18K white gold.
The watch uses a 41.5mm case that measures just 8.1mm thick, paired with an azure lacquered dial and tone-on-tone moonphase display.
The automatic calibre 1120QP has a 40-hour power reserve and keeps the perpetual calendar correct until 2100, while the watch is supplied with a white-gold bracelet plus white and blue-denim rubber straps.
Details & Specifications
| H. Moser & Cie. Off-Grid | 42.6mm steel case with blue or black composite, Calibre D10, GMT, split-seconds chronograph, perpetual calendar, moonphase, up to 12 months autonomy, CHF 3,900 excluding VAT, 1,000 pieces per version |
|---|---|
| Panerai Luminor Tourbillon PAM01784 | 47mm Grade 5 titanium case, hand-wound P.2005/T, 30-second tourbillon, GMT traveler function, six-day power reserve, 100m water resistance, price upon request |
| Ulysse Nardin Freak [ONE Guilloché] | 44mm light-grey titanium case, automatic UN-240, flying carousel, 90-hour power reserve, sand-toned guilloché rotating hour disc, CHF 65,000, limited to 99 pieces |
| Roger Dubuis Knights of the Round Table: The Metamorph Merlin | 45mm 18K pink-gold case, automatic RD821, 48-hour power reserve, twelve pink-gold knights, hand-engraved case middle, price upon request, limited to 28 pieces |
| Formex AirField | 40mm hardened Grade 2 titanium case, Sellita SW200-2 Power+, 65-hour power reserve, date, 150m water resistance, from CHF 830 |
| Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin 30th Anniversary | 41.5mm 18K white-gold case, 8.1mm thick, automatic calibre 1120QP, perpetual calendar, moonphase, 40-hour power reserve, limited to 200 pieces |
Taken together, the releases show a watch industry comfortable with contrast, where a digital Moser, a white-gold Vacheron, a titanium Formex and a hand-sculpted Roger Dubuis can all make sense in the same conversation.
