Fears Closes Its Brunswick Jump Hour Chapter With the Andrew Morgan Ultimus

Fears has never treated the Brunswick as a static design exercise, and the new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Ultimus’ makes that clear.

Created in collaboration with Andrew Morgan, the watch is positioned as the final new Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, taking the line’s 1920s character and pushing it into a more contemporary register.

It’s still recognisably a Fears cushion-case watch, but the display now feels more architectural, more luminous and less nostalgic than earlier executions.

At a glance

A jump hour display with the mechanics brought forward

The Brunswick Jump Hour has always had a strong period influence, pairing Fears’ cushion case with a display that nods to 1920s pocket watches.

For the ‘Ultimus’, that historical reference is still present, but the dial is far more open about how the complication works.

Instead of hiding much of the hour disc, all 12 Arabic numerals remain in view around the display.

They sit beneath a translucent minute disc, with a black central minute hand cutting across the composition for a sharper and more modern read.

The result is a jump hour that feels less like a window onto a hidden mechanism and more like a graphic system in motion.

Luminous ceramic gives the Ultimus its character

The most striking change is material rather than layout alone.

Fears has used luminescent ceramic for the dial, jump hour display and central minute disc, giving the whole face a pale blue glow in low light.

That full-surface luminosity changes the personality of the watch after dark, turning a traditionally dressy format into something more technical and visually assertive.

There’s also a subtle gradient effect around the edge of the lit dial, designed to work with the domed sapphire crystal and underline the tension between pocket-watch inspiration and wristwatch execution.

A cyclops lens over the jumping hour adds another modern cue, placing extra emphasis on the current numeral and giving the watch a slightly sportier edge.

The familiar Brunswick case remains the anchor

The case keeps the Brunswick’s polished stainless steel cushion shape, measuring 40.5mm across and 38.5mm from side to side.

At 12.8mm thick to the top of the domed crystal, it has the presence expected of a mechanical jump hour without leaving the dress-watch world behind.

Water resistance is rated to 100 metres, a practical detail that makes the polished case feel less precious in daily use.

Inside is the Christopher Ward JJ01 jump hour calibre, using a Sellita SW200 automatic movement and fitted with a custom Fears Bristol Flower rotor.

The complication advances the hour disc instantly at the top of each hour, rather than allowing it to creep continuously through the display.

One week to order

The Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour ‘Ultimus’ is available to pre-order online and through the Fears boutique in Bristol for one week only, from August 10 to 17.

It’s priced at £4,450 on an Obsidian Black Epsom calf leather strap.

A version supplied with both the leather strap and a five-link stainless steel bracelet is priced at £4,750.

For collectors who have followed the Brunswick Jump Hour since its introduction in 2023, the ‘Ultimus’ has the feel of a deliberate endpoint rather than a routine variant.

Details & Specifications

The ‘Ultimus’ is likely to appeal most to collectors who enjoy Fears’ British design language but want something less traditional than a standard Brunswick.

As a closing statement for the Brunswick 40.5 Jump Hour, it gives the model a brighter, bolder and more contemporary send-off.