H. Moser & Cie. Adds Two Fumé-Dial Heritage Models With Archival Roots

H. Moser & Cie. has added two new limited models to its Heritage collection, each looking back to a different chapter in the brand’s history.

The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé channels Moser chronographs from the 1940s and 1950s, while the Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé leans into the era when pocket-watch forms were being adapted for the wrist.

Both watches keep the collection’s old-world case language, then sharpen it with contemporary manufacture movements and Moser’s signature fumé dials.

At a glance

• H. Moser & Cie. has expanded its Heritage collection with two limited fumé-dial steel watches.
• The releases include a 42 mm White Fumé chronograph and a 42 mm Espresso Fumé centre-seconds model.
• The chronograph is limited to 100 pieces at CHF 27,000 excluding VAT, while the centre-seconds model is limited to 200 pieces at CHF 14,500 excluding VAT.

Archive shapes with modern Moser mechanics

Founded in 1828, H. Moser & Cie. often returns to its archives without treating them as museum pieces.

The Heritage line is where that approach is most visible, with rounded steel cases, tapered lugs and notched crowns that recall early wristwatches derived from pocket watches.

These two additions keep that silhouette but split the mood between a sportier instrument-style chronograph and a warmer three-hand watch with a pocket-watch character.

The White Fumé chronograph looks to the 1940s and 1950s

The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé directly references Moser chronographs from the mid-20th century.

Its 42 mm steel case measures 13.8 mm thick and carries a notched crown engraved with the Moser “M”.

The sunburst white fumé dial uses the vintage 1947 H. Moser & Cie. logo and a two-register layout, with a 45-minute counter at 3 o’clock and running seconds at 9 o’clock.

A central chronograph seconds hand works with an outer tachymeter scale, giving the watch a functional period-correct rhythm without becoming a straight reproduction.

Blue accents pick out the scale markings, subdial graduations and Super-LumiNova-filled hour numerals, while luminous sword hands strengthen the instrument-watch feel.

Inside is the automatic HMC 220 Manufacture calibre with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module.

The movement measures 32 mm wide and 8.4 mm thick, runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, and uses 51 jewels.

It also brings a bidirectional pawl winding system, a minimum 3-day power reserve, an original Straumann hairspring, an engraved oscillating weight and Moser double-stripe decoration visible through the sapphire caseback.

Espresso Fumé brings the pocket-watch spirit forward

The Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé takes a calmer route, translating early 20th-century pocket-watch cues into a three-hand wristwatch.

It shares the 42 mm steel case, tapered lugs and “M”-engraved notched crown of the chronograph, but its 11.1 mm case height gives it a slimmer profile.

The dial is a warm espresso-brown sunburst fumé, framed by a white railway minute track.

Three-dimensional Globolight numerals infused with Super-LumiNova sit alongside luminous sword hands, giving the watch a strong graphic presence after dark as well as in daylight.

Moser’s transparent-lacquer logo keeps the branding deliberately quiet, which suits the watch’s softer, more historically minded personality.

The automatic HMC 200 Manufacture calibre powers the model, measuring 32 mm across and 5.5 mm thick.

It runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour with 27 jewels and includes an original Straumann hairspring with a flat terminal curve, bidirectional pawl winding and a 3-day power reserve.

Finishing includes Moser double stripes across the bridges and an engraved rotor.

Details & Specifications

For collectors drawn to Moser’s quieter side, these watches offer two different readings of the same Heritage idea.

The chronograph has the sharper vintage-instrument energy, while the Espresso Fumé centre-seconds model is the more restrained choice, and both show how comfortably the brand can move between archive reference and modern execution.