H. Moser & Cie. has been quiet with its Heritage collection for several years, but the latest additions give the line a meaningful refresh.
The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé introduces a new complication to the family, while the Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé brings one of Moser’s most familiar formats into a warmer register.
Both watches lean into the collection’s vintage language without abandoning the brand’s taste for clean fumé dials and restrained detailing.
At a glance
- H. Moser & Cie. has added two limited editions to the Heritage collection, including its first Heritage chronograph.
- The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé uses a bi-compax layout, while the Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé updates the three-hand model with a brown fumé dial.
- The chronograph is limited to 100 pieces at £29,700, and the centre seconds model is limited to 200 pieces at £16,000.
A first chronograph for the Heritage line
The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé is the more significant of the two releases because it brings a chronograph into the Heritage collection for the first time.
Its design takes inspiration from mid-20th-century Moser chronographs, the same historical vein that informed the brand’s 2024 collaboration with Massena LAB.
The steel case measures 42mm across and 13.8mm thick, giving it a practical, instrument-like presence rather than a delicate dress-watch profile.
Retro pushers, wire lugs and a compressed onion crown reinforce the old-world character, but the execution remains crisp rather than costume-like.
The dial uses a sunray brushed white fumé finish that fades toward silver-grey, a softer treatment than the smoky gradients often associated with the brand.
Blue hands and scales bring contrast to the dial, including the Arabic numerals, minute track and tachymeter scale.
The bi-compax arrangement places running seconds at 3 o’clock and a 45-minute counter at 9 o’clock, keeping the display symmetrical and legible.
The espresso dial gives the Centre Seconds a richer mood
The Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé is more of a tonal evolution, but it lands well within Moser’s visual vocabulary.
It follows the format of the 2019 Heritage Centre Seconds Funky Blue, retaining a 42mm steel case with an 11.1mm thickness and slim wire lugs.
The defining change is the espresso brown fumé dial, which gives the watch a warmer and more understated personality than the earlier blue version.
The logo beneath 12 o’clock is rendered in transparent lacquer rather than white, allowing it to sit quietly on the dial like a ghosted signature.
Globolight numerals complete the display and are designed to shine in low-light conditions.
As with the chronograph, the watch is fitted to a kudu leather strap, a material choice that suits the Heritage line’s slightly rugged vintage direction.
Movements and finishing
The Heritage Chronograph White Fumé is powered by the HMC 220 manufacture calibre, fitted with a Dubois Dépraz chronograph module.
It’s an automatic movement with a 72-hour power reserve, which is a notable figure for a chronograph calibre.
The movement is visible through the exhibition caseback, where the open-worked rotor, finishing and Straumann® hairspring can be seen.
The Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé uses the HMC 200 calibre, also automatic and also offering a 72-hour power reserve.
Its finishing includes perlage and H. Moser’s double striped Côtes de Genève, giving the simpler three-hand watch the level of mechanical polish expected from the brand.
Details & Specifications
| Brand | H. Moser & Cie. |
|---|---|
| Models | Heritage Chronograph White Fumé; Heritage Centre Seconds Espresso Fumé |
| Case material | Steel |
| Case size | Chronograph: 42mm x 13.8mm; Centre Seconds: 42mm x 11.1mm |
| Dial | Chronograph: sunray brushed white fumé with blue scales and hands; Centre Seconds: espresso brown fumé with transparent lacquer logo |
| Movement | Chronograph: HMC 220 automatic manufacture calibre with Dubois Dépraz chronograph module; Centre Seconds: HMC 200 automatic calibre |
| Complication | Chronograph: bi-compax chronograph with running seconds and 45-minute counter; Centre Seconds: time-only three-hand display |
| Power reserve | 72 hours |
| Strap | Kudu leather strap |
| Limited edition | Chronograph: 100 pieces; Centre Seconds: 200 pieces |
| Price | Chronograph: £29,700; Centre Seconds: £16,000 |
Taken together, these two watches make the Heritage collection feel active again without diluting its identity.
The chronograph will likely be the collector draw for its new complication and vintage cues, while the Espresso Fumé offers a quieter route into Moser’s Heritage design language.
