Some dive watches are designed to look adventurous from across a boutique counter.
The Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph II is more direct than that, reviving one of the brand’s most distinctive chronograph divers with the sort of proportions, colour and practical hardware that make sense around water.
It’s a chunky, deeply legible watch with a clear job, and its appeal lies in how little it tries to disguise that purpose.
At a glance
- Doxa has revived the SUB 200 T.Graph II as a 42mm stainless-steel diving chronograph.
- It uses the automatic Sellita SW510 movement, has 200 metres of water resistance and comes with a timing bezel, screw-down crown and luminous dive dial.
- Four dial colours are available at launch, with bracelet or rubber strap options including wetsuit-ready folding clasps.
A tighter take on a cult Doxa chronograph
The original Doxa SUB 200 T.Graph arrived in 1969, when the idea of combining a dive watch with a chronograph was still highly specialised.
Its purpose was not decorative complexity, but timing utility in and around the water, from short intervals to practical tasks on deck.
The SUB 200 T.Graph II keeps that spirit intact while trimming the format slightly.
The new stainless-steel cushion case measures 42mm across and 14.6mm thick, making it fractionally smaller than the earlier 43mm by 15.15mm profile.
On paper, that sounds like a modest adjustment.
On the wrist, those small dimensional changes matter, especially for a watch that already carries the mass and presence expected from a serious mechanical diving chronograph.
Doxa’s cushion case remains central to the character of the watch.
It’s broad, purposeful and instantly recognisable, but the revised proportions should make the T.Graph II more wearable across a wider range of wrists.
Colour, legibility and working diver hardware
The dial layout is clean in the way a proper instrument should be.
Large printed indices are treated with Super-LumiNova, while the chronograph places a 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock and a 60-second counter at 9 o’clock.
A date window sits at 6 o’clock, keeping the display balanced without crowding the dial.
The watch is offered in four colourways.
Professional orange is the classic Doxa calling card, Sharkhunter brings a black-dial tool-watch severity, Searambler adds a sunburst silver option and Caribbean blue gives the collection a darker, almost navy tone.
The Caribbean version is especially well suited to the model, because it adds depth without turning the watch into something precious.
Strap choice is equally practical.
Buyers can choose the stainless-steel beads-of-rice bracelet, long associated with Doxa’s vintage diving language, or a rubber strap in black or a colour-matched finish.
Both options use signed folding clasps with wetsuit extensions, a detail that matters if the watch is going over neoprene rather than sitting safely under a cuff.
The rest of the dive specification stays appropriately straightforward.
The SUB 200 T.Graph II has 200 metres of water resistance, a screw-down crown, a screw-in caseback and a unidirectional stainless-steel bezel.
The Sellita SW510 keeps the focus on function
Inside the watch is the Sellita SW510, an automatic Swiss chronograph movement with architecture derived from the Valjoux 7750.
It runs at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers roughly 56 hours of power reserve.
That choice suits the watch.
This is not a piece trying to sell itself through movement theatre or decorative excess.
It relies on a proven automatic chronograph calibre and leaves the drama to the case shape, dial colour and underwater usability.
The distinction matters because the T.Graph II is best understood as a dive watch with a chronograph, not a dress chronograph dressed up for the sea.
The timing bezel remains the essential underwater tool, while the chronograph adds another layer of practical timing above the surface or in controlled use.
Cold-water usability in the Sharkhunter
The Sharkhunter version makes perhaps the clearest argument for the watch as equipment.
Its black dial and utilitarian case presence give it the feel of something made to be used, not handled delicately.
In cold quarry diving conditions around 40°F, the watch’s legibility is exactly where it needs to be.
With the bezel aligned to the minute hand, elapsed time is easy to read at a glance, even when visibility drops and the surrounding environment turns grey-green and indistinct.
Over a drysuit, a longer strap is the most practical solution, and the watch’s stout proportions look natural in that context.
It doesn’t disappear, but it also doesn’t feel out of place among the rest of the kit.
Details & Specifications
| Brand | Doxa |
|---|---|
| Model | SUB 200 T.Graph II |
| Case size | 42mm diameter, 14.6mm thick |
| Case material | Stainless steel |
| Crystal | Sapphire with anti-reflective coating |
| Dial colours | Professional orange, Sharkhunter black, Searambler sunburst silver, Caribbean blue |
| Movement | Sellita SW510 automatic chronograph |
| Frequency | 28,800 vibrations per hour |
| Power reserve | Approximately 56 hours |
| Chronograph layout | 30-minute counter at 3 o’clock, 60-second counter at 9 o’clock |
| Date | 6 o’clock |
| Lume | Super-LumiNova on printed indices |
| Water resistance | 200 metres |
| Bezel | Unidirectional stainless-steel timing bezel |
| Crown and caseback | Screw-down crown, screw-in caseback |
| Strap or bracelet | Beads-of-rice stainless-steel bracelet or rubber strap with signed folding clasp and wetsuit extension |
| Availability | Four references at launch |
The SUB 200 T.Graph II works because Doxa hasn’t tried to make it smoother than it should be.
It’s thick, legible, colourful and plainly useful, which is exactly the combination that made the brand’s diving watches matter in the first place.
