Doxa Gives the SUB 200 T.Graph II a Sharper Permanent Return

Doxa’s SUB 200 T.Graph has always sat in an interesting corner of dive watch history.

It carries the visual punch of the brand’s late-1960s tool watches, but adds the practical, slightly more land-friendly appeal of a chronograph.

With the new SUB 200 T.Graph II, Doxa is bringing that idea into its permanent collection rather than treating it as a short-run nostalgia piece.

At a glance

A leaner take on Doxa’s dive chronograph

The most meaningful change is also the one owners are likely to notice first on the wrist.

Doxa has reduced the case from 43mm to 42mm, while the thickness drops from 15.15mm to 14.6mm.

Those numbers still put the SUB 200 T.Graph II firmly in tool-watch territory, but the proportions move it away from oversized and into something more manageable for everyday wear.

The brand has also focused on stability, with the slimmer profile intended to help the watch sit more securely rather than feeling top-heavy.

Despite the smaller footprint, the fundamentals remain intact.

The stainless steel case keeps its 200m water resistance, screw-down crown and unidirectional rotating bezel with a dive timing scale.

That bezel also carries a second scale for chronograph use, a detail that neatly sums up the watch’s dual identity as both diver and elapsed-time instrument.

Four colours with a late-1960s thread

The dial layout is classic bicompax, with running seconds at 9 o’clock and a 30-minute chronograph counter at 3 o’clock.

Doxa has kept the display deliberately graphic, using large markers and block-like shapes to separate the information without turning the dial into a cluttered technical drawing.

The 30-minute counter is particularly characterful, with alternating colour segments every five minutes that give the subdial a useful sense of rhythm.

There are four colourways in the line-up.

Professional Orange, Sharkhunter Black and Searambler Silver return as the familiar Doxa trio tied to the model’s history.

Caribbean Blue is the newcomer for the T.Graph family, though the colour itself has long-standing late-1960s roots within the wider Doxa universe.

It’s a smart addition because it feels period-correct without simply repeating the same vintage playbook.

A modern Sellita movement inside

The SUB 200 T.Graph II is also mechanically updated.

Earlier limited interpretations used the Valjoux 7734, a manually wound chronograph movement with a 45-hour power reserve and a 2.5 Hz beat rate.

This new permanent collection uses the automatic Sellita SW510 instead, bringing a 56-hour power reserve and a 4 Hz frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour.

The longer reserve is useful in daily rotation, especially for anyone who switches watches over a weekend.

The higher frequency also gives the chronograph seconds hand a smoother sweep and provides a stronger foundation for stable timekeeping, even if final accuracy always depends on regulation and execution.

Functionally, the watch covers hours, minutes, seconds, date and chronograph timing.

That makes it less of a stripped-back diver and more of an all-purpose mechanical tool watch with a strong visual identity.

Details & Specifications

The SUB 200 T.Graph II works because it doesn’t treat heritage as an excuse to stand still.

It keeps the bold Doxa character, trims the case into a more wearable shape and upgrades the mechanics in a way that should matter to collectors who actually wear their watches.