Nomos Glashütte has always been at its most persuasive when it resists the urge to overcomplicate things.
The new Orion Gold Neomatik New Black follows that instinct closely, pairing a polished 18k yellow gold case with a dark galvanised dial and the brand’s slim automatic DUW 3001 calibre.
It’s a dress watch in the traditional sense, but not a nostalgic one.
At a glance
- Nomos has introduced the Orion Gold Neomatik New Black with an 18k yellow gold case and black galvanised dial.
- The watch measures 36.4mm across and 8.5mm thick, helped by the slim in-house DUW 3001 automatic movement.
- Reference 305 is priced at EUR 12,600 and is fitted to a black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap.
A sharper black and gold Orion
The Orion has long been one of Nomos Glashütte’s most formal designs, defined by its curved case, open dial and quietly elongated lugs.
In this version, the design takes on a more evening-focused character without abandoning the restraint that makes the Orion work.
The 18k yellow gold case is fully polished, which suits the watch’s spare geometry and gives the curved profile more presence on the wrist.
At 36.4mm in diameter, the case remains compact by modern standards, though the 45mm lug-to-lug span is a reminder that Orion lugs have always been deliberately long.
The proportions are slim rather than tiny, with an overall thickness of 8.5mm and a domed sapphire crystal adding a little vintage-like softness.
Water resistance is rated to 30 metres, which is enough for daily caution rather than sport-watch confidence.
The dial keeps the emphasis on line and contrast
The galvanised black dial gives this Orion its defining tension.
Against the warmth of yellow gold, the dark surface makes the watch feel more architectural, while the golden indices and slender gold hands keep the composition coherent.
Nomos has kept the display to hours, minutes and small seconds, with the sub-dial placed at 6 o’clock.
That small seconds register is discreet enough not to crowd the dial, which matters on a watch whose character depends on negative space.
The result is more formal than playful, but it avoids the heaviness that black-and-gold watches can sometimes develop.
The DUW 3001 keeps the case thin
The Orion Gold Neomatik New Black is powered by the DUW 3001, Nomos Glashütte’s slim automatic calibre developed and produced in-house.
At 3.2mm thick, the movement is a key reason the watch can stay under 9mm while still offering the convenience of automatic winding.
The calibre runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour and offers a power reserve of up to 43 hours.
It also uses the Nomos swing system, the brand’s own regulating system, which has become an important part of its movement identity.
A sapphire crystal caseback gives a view of the movement, balancing the watch’s formal front with a more technical view from the back.
Details & Specifications
| Brand | Nomos Glashütte |
|---|---|
| Model | Orion Gold Neomatik New Black |
| Reference | 305 |
| Case size | 36.4mm diameter, 8.5mm thickness, 45mm lug-to-lug |
| Case material | Polished 18k yellow gold |
| Crystal | Domed sapphire crystal with inner anti-reflective coating |
| Caseback | Sapphire crystal display back |
| Water resistance | 30 metres |
| Dial | Galvanised black with golden hour indices |
| Hands | Gold hands |
| Functions | Hours, minutes, small seconds |
| Movement | Nomos DUW 3001 automatic |
| Movement dimensions | 28.8mm diameter, 3.2mm thickness |
| Jewels | 37 |
| Frequency | 21,600 vibrations per hour |
| Power reserve | Up to 43 hours |
| Strap | Black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan with remborde construction |
| Lug width | 18mm |
| Price | EUR 12,600 |
A formal Nomos with more gravity
This isn’t the most casual expression of the Orion, and that’s exactly the point.
The yellow gold case, black dial and thin automatic movement place the watch closer to the classic dress category, but the clean Nomos design language keeps it from feeling old-fashioned.
It will make the most sense for collectors who already appreciate the Orion’s long-lugged silhouette and want a richer, more formal version with genuine precious-metal weight.
For Nomos, it’s a convincing reminder that minimalism doesn’t have to be austere when the materials, colour and proportions are doing the work.
