This was a strong week for watches with a clear theme running through it. Several brands looked back to foundational ideas, then reworked them through smaller cases, tougher construction, new movements or sharper limited editions.
MB&F’s Legacy Machine N°1 EVO and Hublot’s Classic Fusion Tributo led the conversation, but the wider field was just as varied. URWERK rethought its wandering hours display, Ressence introduced a self-developed oil-filled platform, and Biver placed a new hand-wound calibre inside its smallest watch to date.
At a glance
- MB&F has revived the Legacy Machine N°1 as the LM1 EVO, while Hublot has revisited Carlo Crocco’s 1980 gold-and-rubber design with the Classic Fusion Tributo.
- The week’s strongest technical stories include independent dual-time displays, wandering hours, oil-filled orbital indication and a new hand-wound calibre from Biver.
- Confirmed prices range from CHF 2,100 for the TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph x Oracle Red Bull Racing to CHF 168,000 for the URWERK UR-300 Time Quantum.
MB&F gives the LM1 a tougher second life
The MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 EVO is not a simple anniversary reissue.
Fifteen years after the original LM1, the dual-time concept returns in a 42mm case with FlexRing shock protection and an interchangeable rubber strap system.
The basic idea remains one of MB&F’s most useful complications, with two displays that allow the hours and minutes to be set independently.
The movement is still manually wound, but power reserve rises to 60 hours from the original model’s 45 hours.
Two versions are confirmed, one in Grade 5 titanium with a rhodium-coloured dial plate and one in 5N+ rose gold with a green dial plate.
The titanium model is priced at CHF 82,000 before taxes, while the rose-gold version is CHF 102,000 before taxes and limited to 33 pieces.
Hublot returns to its original gold-and-rubber idea
The Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo looks back to the 1980 watch that established Carlo Crocco’s unusual pairing of precious metal and rubber.
At 38mm, the new model keeps the format compact and period-aware without leaning into pure replica territory.
The design brings back the twelve bezel screws and the MDM signature, details closely tied to Hublot’s earliest identity.
Two precious-metal versions are confirmed.
The yellow-gold model uses a black lacquer dial with a charcoal effect, while the white-gold model has a polished black onyx dial.
Both are powered by the automatic HUB1711, with 60 hours of power reserve, 100 metres of water resistance and a price of CHF 25,000 each.
Hublot is also marking the launch with a CHF 100,000 donation to the Main Dans la Main Foundation, which supports vulnerable children and families.
Independent watchmaking pushes the display forward
URWERK’s UR-300 Time Quantum gives the brand’s wandering hours a new architecture built around two perpendicular modules forming a T.
The active hour moves along the minute scale, while the frame jumps and changes configuration as its prisms rotate to the next hour numeral.
The watch uses the automatic UR-30.01V calibre with 44 hours of power reserve and comes in a Grade 5 titanium case measuring 45.2 × 58.8 × 18.25mm.
Production is split between 25 pieces in natural titanium and 25 pieces in black PECVD-coated titanium, each priced at CHF 168,000 before taxes.
Ressence’s TYPE 10 DN is notable for a different reason, as it’s the brand’s first oil-filled watch powered by a movement of its own design.
The automatic RW-04 runs in an air-filled chamber and drives the ROCS 10 orbital display in a separate oil-filled chamber through magnetic transmission.
The deep-blue display shows hours, minutes, a second time zone, a 120-second runner and an oil temperature scale.
The TYPE 10 DN is limited to 100 pieces and priced at CHF 45,000 before taxes.
Biver also had an important first this week with the AB, which brings together the brand’s first steel case and first hand-wound calibre.
At 38mm, it is the smallest Biver watch to date, with a black onyx outer ring, a darkened gold dial centre and a small-seconds display.
The new JCB-004 calibre delivers 120 hours of autonomy and includes a zero-reset function for the small seconds when the crown is pulled.
Colour, collaboration and compact cases define the wider field
MING and Massena LAB returned to their honeycomb theme with the 57.09 Secret Honey, a 40mm Grade 5 titanium watch with three rotating sapphire discs above a dark-brown dial.
The Sellita for MING 330.M2 movement offers 50 hours of power reserve, and the watch is limited to 125 pieces at CHF 7,250 before taxes.
TAG Heuer brought Oracle Red Bull Racing colours to the 38mm Formula 1 Solargraph, using a blue dial, red flange and yellow seconds hand.
The light-powered TH50-00 movement offers up to ten months of autonomy on a full charge, with the watch priced at CHF 2,100.
Bell & Ross took the BR-03 into more theatrical territory with the Space Mission, placing a Moon hour display and spaceplane minute hand over a black aventurine dial.
The 41mm black ceramic watch is limited to 999 pieces and priced at EUR 4,990.
IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Year of the Goat pairs a titanium case with a black ceramic tachymeter bezel, a gold-coloured dial and a gold-plated rotor depicting three goats.
The date display replaces the numeral eight with the Chinese character for goat, and the watch is limited to 500 pieces at CHF 10,400 including VAT.
Hermès added two lighter versions of the H08, Blanc Chantilly and Bleu de Malte, both built around aluminum-coated braided glass-fiber composite cases and ceramic bezels.
Both use the automatic H1837 calibre with approximately 50 hours of power reserve and are priced at USD 8,600 each.
Breitling announced a bespoke Super Chronomat program reserved for Aston Martin Valhalla owners, offering either a 44mm titanium B19 perpetual-calendar chronograph or a 38mm steel automatic with a diamond-set bezel.
Both versions use carbon-fiber dials and Rouleaux bracelets, with colour and engraving choices intended to echo the owner’s car specification.
Ralph Lauren’s Western Cushion is now available in a 38mm format, with an engraved aged sterling-silver case and a choice of black lacquer, off-white lacquer or natural turquoise dials.
Arnold & Son added stop-seconds functionality to its DSTB true-beat display, offering the watch in red gold with a Cliff Grey dial or platinum with a Kingsand dial, limited to 18 pieces in each version.
Formex’s Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift COSC rounds out the week with a black zirconium oxide ceramic case and bracelet, a dark meteorite dial with red accents and a COSC-certified Sellita SW200-2 Power+ movement.
Details & Specifications
| Watch | Confirmed details |
|---|---|
| MB&F Legacy Machine N°1 EVO | 42 × 16.8mm Grade 5 titanium or 5N+ rose gold case, manually wound MB&F movement, independently adjustable dual time zones, 60-hour power reserve, 80m water resistance, CHF 82,000 in titanium and CHF 102,000 in rose gold before taxes, rose gold limited to 33 pieces. |
| Hublot Classic Fusion Tributo | 38mm 18K yellow or white gold case, automatic HUB1711, hours, minutes, seconds and date, 60-hour power reserve, 100m water resistance, black lined rubber strap, CHF 25,000 each. |
| URWERK UR-300 Time Quantum | Grade 5 titanium or black PECVD-coated Grade 5 titanium case, 45.2 × 58.8 × 18.25mm, automatic UR-30.01V, wandering hours, minutes and seconds, 44-hour power reserve, 30m water resistance, CHF 168,000 before taxes, 25 pieces in each version. |
| Ressence TYPE 10 DN | 41.5mm polished Grade 5 titanium case with hard coating, automatic RW-04 with ROCS 10 module, hours, minutes, second time zone, 120-second runner and oil-temperature indication, 60-hour power reserve, 5 ATM water resistance, CHF 45,000 before taxes, limited to 100 pieces. |
| Biver AB | 38 × 9.8mm stainless-steel case, manually wound JCB-004, hours, minutes, small seconds with zero reset and power-reserve indication, 120-hour power reserve, 8 ATM water resistance, five-link steel bracelet plus anthracite Bahia calfskin strap, CHF 68,000 before taxes. |
| MING × Massena LAB 57.09 Secret Honey | 40 × 10.17mm Grade 5 titanium case with TiN- and TiSiN-coated lug sections, automatic Sellita for MING 330.M2, hours and minutes, 50-hour power reserve, 100m water resistance, CHF 7,250 before taxes, limited to 125 pieces. |
| TAG Heuer Formula 1 Solargraph x Oracle Red Bull Racing | 38 × 10.2mm sandblasted stainless-steel case, solar-powered quartz TH50-00, hours, minutes, seconds and date, up to ten months of autonomy on a full charge, 100m water resistance, steel bracelet, CHF 2,100. |
| Bell & Ross BR-03 Space Mission | 41 × 10.6mm micro-blasted black ceramic case, automatic BR-CAL.325, hours and minutes, 54-hour power reserve, 100m water resistance, black rubber and additional black synthetic fabric strap, EUR 4,990, limited to 999 pieces. |
| IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41 Year of the Goat | 41 × 14.7mm titanium case with black ceramic bezel, automatic Caliber 69385, chronograph with day, date and tachymeter, 46-hour power reserve, 100m water resistance, CHF 10,400 including VAT, limited to 500 pieces. |
| Hermès H08 Bleu de Malte and Blanc Chantilly | 39mm aluminum-coated braided glass-fiber composite case with white or blue ceramic bezel, automatic H1837, hours, minutes, seconds and date, approximately 50-hour power reserve, 100m water resistance, USD 8,600 each. |
| Breitling Super Chronomat for Aston Martin Valhalla Owners | Bespoke commissions for Aston Martin Valhalla owners, offered as a 44mm titanium B19 perpetual-calendar chronograph or 38mm steel automatic with diamond-set bezel, carbon-fiber dials, Rouleaux bracelets, price upon request. |
| Ralph Lauren Western Cushion 38mm | 38 × 38 × 9.3mm engraved and aged sterling-silver case, automatic RL514 produced by Piaget for Ralph Lauren, hours, minutes and seconds, approximately 40-hour power reserve, 50m water resistance, CHF 22,500 for lacquer dials and CHF 25,000 for turquoise including taxes. |
| Arnold & Son DSTB Stop-Seconds | 42 × 12.95mm 18K 5N red gold or 950 platinum case, automatic A&S6303, hours, minutes, true-beat seconds and stop-seconds, 55-hour power reserve, 30m water resistance, CHF 46,000 in red gold and CHF 56,800 in platinum including VAT, 18 pieces per version. |
| Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter Redshift COSC | 41 × 11.2mm black zirconium oxide ceramic case, COSC-certified Sellita SW200-2 Power+, hours, minutes, seconds and date, 65-hour power reserve, 100m water resistance, CHF 3,500, production limited to 100 pieces annually with first batch numbered 001–100. |
For collectors, the week offered a useful split between heritage-minded restraint and mechanical experimentation.
MB&F and Hublot supplied the headline acts, but the strongest impression came from the range of approaches on display, from independent display systems to compact precious-metal tributes and highly specific owner-only commissions.
